Author: Kupitero

Day 1 – Feb. 5, 2017 – (Sunday): Puerto Princesa on Two Wheels

“The place is orderly and clean” was our initial impression of Puerto Princesa as our driver made his way around the city towards Socrates Road after he picked us up in an old, white van at the small airport in this capital city of Palawan.

Subli Guest Cabins would be our overnight shelter in the city that day, as Matthew & Johan would be jetting in from Manila the next morning for our northbound, overland trip to the touristy and popular but more remote El Nido.

We arrived in high spirits at the guest cabins, made of concrete and bamboo, despite our red-eye flight from Siem Reap, which included a 6-hour sleep-depriving wait inside Manila’s newer and spacious Terminal 3 airport.

After verbally agreeing with the young and bubbly receptionist to rent their only Honda scooter for PHP 600 (USD 12) that day, we promptly showered and got some sleep after checking in.

Refreshed from our 3-plus hours of rest, we strapped our helmets and ventured out at 3 PM along with a bagful of dirty clothes– only to run out of gas just a few meters away from the compound.

Ruby flagged a passing ‘tricycle’ (a common form of paid transport in the country, similar to ‘tuk-tuks’ – a motorcycle with a ‘sidecar’ for extra seating passengers), and they returned with petrol in a 2-liter PET plastic bottle.  We filled up the tank with another PHP 90 (USD 1.80) at a nearby Shell gas station along Malvar Road after we finally got going.

Riding a scooter, motorcycle, or even a bicycle is one of the simple joys of life that we, as human beings, tend to overlook.  With the wind on your face and the sights and sounds of the surroundings all around you, one’s sense of adventure is elevated by having that constant awareness of the dangers of being on the road, so that you hold on to dear life on that handlebar.

We saw a body of water to our right immediately after passing the public market, so we made a right turn at the next intersection.  The road narrowed markedly and led us to a sweeping descent at a small park— the Puerto Princesa Baywalk.  Along its stretch were numerous open-air food stalls that overlooked a cove part of the Palawan Sea.

It was just about 4 PM, but 2 or 3 food stalls were already doing some business, so we opted for K’na Boyet sa Baywok- one where a group of tourists occupied a couple of tables.

Once seated, the aroma of that familiar “calamansi” (calamondin) and soy sauce-flavored BBQs that are popular all over the archipelago triggered our ‘hunger reflexes’ higher.  We sidled towards the charcoal-fed grill, where several pans filled with assorted sea offerings vied for our attention.

An order of grilled “pork liempo” (grilled, marinated pork belly), shrimps sautéed in butter and garlic, rice, a mango shake & two bottles of San Miguel Light beer set us back for about PHP 750 (USD 14.50).

Bellies filled, we then set our sights for Baker’s Hill and asked for directions from the very amiable waitress, who suggested that we might as well visit Mitra Ranch, as both were in the same area.

Amidst moderate traffic, as it was a weekend, we didn’t take long to find our way towards the city’s main highway, Puerto Princesa North Road.  However, we had to ask locals for directions twice to reach the junction of PP South Road, which would lead us to our destination.  We dropped off our laundry bag at a shop along the cemented two-lane highway while trying to find our way towards Baker’s Hill.

Like most roads in the city outskirts, the narrow road that goes up towards Baker’s Hill was so puzzlingly unmarked that we overshot it by a few miles despite asking directions 2 or 3 more times — the last one from a mechanic working on a wheel of a small truck along the grass-lined fringes of the highway.  The tall trees behind the shop gave us glimpses of the rice fields.  They would punctuate the highway the farther we got away from the city proper.

Baker’s Hill was just a family compound with –you guessed it– a bakery, an open-air restaurant, and a souvenir stall.  It became a ‘snack-stop’ for visitors going to Mitra Ranch.  It strives to become a major tourist attraction in the city, mainly through word of mouth and recommendations from past visitors on travel websites.  The bakery primarily sells pastries and snacks, notably the various ‘hopia‘ (thin, flaky pastries filled with mung bean paste).

Just a few meters uphill, Mitra Ranch offered a better view of the city, horseback riding, and zip-lining.  The place was opened to the public after the death of the family patriarch, Ramon ‘Monching’ Mitra, Jr., who was an esteemed senator.  Unfortunately, he lost the 1992 Philippine presidential election despite being considered the early favorite to win.

Dusk was upon us after we picked up our laundry and headed back to the city.  We had decided to have an early bedtime since we needed to be up early to meet the couple at the airport for our morning trip to El Nido.  Moreover, with our weather-beaten faces and aboard two small wheels that offered minimal comforts, tiredness had crept in on our bodies once again.

It was already dark once we reached the city proper and got lost once more, only to find ourselves buying some delicious ‘lechon‘ (roasted suckling pig) for dinner from a makeshift stall in front of a shop that sold various solar-powered devices.

After handing us the take-out goodie in a plastic bag, the middle-aged vendor summoned us to the edge of the sidewalk and pointed to an intersection where we would make a right towards Malvar Road.  His instructions sounded like music to our ears.

It was about 8:30 PM when we made the final turn back to the comforts of Subli’s compound aboard our trusty scooter.

Day 2 – Feb. 6, 2017 – (Monday): The Road to El Nido 

It was about 8:45 in the morning, and the air was crisp with a light gust from the east.  It made the flowers, protected by a low, concrete encasement, sway to its rhythm.  I spotted the driver holding a sign with Matthew’s name on it while he waited just a few yards away from the exit gates of the Puerto Princesa airport and chatted with him.

Just an hour ago, we checked out of Subli and took a tricycle to meet Matthew and Johan for our van ride to El Nido.

Matthew had arranged for the rides as well as our accommodations in that popular destination north of Puerto Princesa.  We would be out of the airport by 9:15 aboard a van that badly needed a new set of shock absorbers.

The driver briefly stopped by a hotel with a cheesy name-D’ Lucky Garden Inn– and picked up a young couple from the U.K. who joined us for the trip.  The four of us would stay for a night in Puerto Princesa at this hotel after our El Nido escapade.

The very long (almost five hours) and tiring ride, mainly along the two-lane but cemented Puerto Princesa North Road, was uneventful except for a few stops where the driver loaded up on a few more passengers along the way to augment his earnings.  There was a mandatory stop at an ‘agricultural checkpoint‘ where we bought some drinks from a nearby store.

At kilometer 131, just along the highway, we had our lunch break at Elfredo’s Manokan & Seafood Restaurant in the sleepy municipality of Roxas.

We would pass through undulating roads along the fringes of the municipalities of San Vicente and Taytay (the first capital of Palawan, dating back to the Spanish colonial period and where the small Fort Santa Isabel – constructed in 1667- still stands until, on a small rotunda,  we bade goodbye to the PPNR and veered west towards the Taytay-El Nido National Highway.

Previews of what to expect in El Nido would manifest along the T-EN National Highway as the road grew steeper, following the Malampaya River.  Majestic views of a few islands would behold our eyes as soon as the van crested a steep hill.

We finally arrived at the terminal in El Nido at about 3 PM, and a short tricycle ride (PHP 50 or USD) whisked us to our hotel’s downtown office along Calle Hama.  

A woman in her mid-20s with hints of Middle Eastern ancestry confirmed our reservations and radioed for two (2) smaller tricycles to pick us up.  She also provided insights and impressions about the entire place, handing out a simple map of El Nido that included a list of nearby massage parlors, bars, and restaurants.

The road that led to Caalan Beach Resort was too narrow – barely a meter wide in some areas – that on several occasions along the way, either our ride or the incoming one had to stop and give way to the other.

The cemented road followed the shoreline until you hit an unsealed portion lined by coconut, banana & other small fruit trees as well as a variety of ornamental plants with nipa huts, slow-slung houses, two-story concrete hostels, ‘sari-sari’ stores (a small, family-operated shop that sells sodas, snacks & various household goods typically attached to the house), makeshift food-stands, dogs by the roadside, all mingled in a locale called “Barrio Taiyo” (Taiyo Village).

At the resort, we were greeted and offered welcome drinks by Bee, who explained that she and her husband, John, were helping their parents run the place during their vacation.  She added that her father, married to a Japanese woman, was an engineer from South Korea who decided to settle in this part of Palawan when he was assigned to work on a road construction project in the area.

We finally settled into our second-level room, which featured a balcony offering magnificent views of several islands in the bay, with Cadlao Island being the largest and most immediate.

Mat & Johan checked out the beachfront but found it too rocky and the nearby waters too shallow to take a quick swim, so we all just had a quick nap before heading out back to town to have dinner after briefly waiting out the mild drizzle brought by dark clouds that passed by.

Calle Hama is the unofficial party street in El Nido, as it’s where most tourists end up after their excursions along the beach.  It’s a narrow, interior road; hence, it is closed at night to all vehicular traffic – except for tricycles owned by resorts along the coast – to allow enough space for all the touristy activities.

Due to poor or even non-existent urban planning & zoning, it suffers, just like most remote bayside resorts all over the country, from its inability to exude any charm or appeal.  The area is a haphazard collection of food stalls, souvenir shops, hostels, and houses, where locals, backpackers barely out of their teens, and elderly tourists mingle and wander around.

After trying out a few pieces of “barbecue-on-a-stick” from a sidewalk stand, we got bored with the area, as it was a bit early, and took another tricycle ride towards “Bulalo Plaza“.  

We stopped just a few meters after we exited the junction of Rizal Street and the Taytay-El Nido highway.  Unless you’re a local, and although the place is open 24 hours a day, it is easy to miss, as the small signage is often overwhelmed by the cliff walls and the surrounding greenery.

We climbed a few steps into the eatery and were ushered to a table right in the middle of the place by a pleasant, effeminate waiter who introduced himself as Megan.  The entire setup resembled a kitchen converted into a restaurant, featuring about eight wooden tables and bamboo benches in a squat, elevated location that faced the highway.

Two orders of the house special, ‘bulalo‘ (beef shank soup with vegetables), a plate of ‘seafood sisig’ (a variety of minced seafood sautéed in a sizzling skillet topped with chilis & fresh egg), rice, sodas, and a bottle of beer were more than enough for our stomachs.  Afterward, we decided to walk back to town to shake off some of the cholesterol deposits.

Along the way, Mat & Johan inquired at a roadside travel and tour stall for the earliest trip back to Puerto Princesa on Wednesday to catch the underground cave trip on the same day.  Mat balked at the idea after learning that they would not only barely make it to PP on time but also lose the money he had paid for their already booked and scheduled return trip.

Back at Calle Hama to get our free ride back to the resort, the trio went shopping for souvenirs while I scoured the place for some cold beer in cans.  I managed to get some, but they were not cold, so I searched in vain for some ice.  Our driver suggested I could get some at the  resort, so our tricycle squeezed back into that narrow alley, its motor sputtering in the stillness of the early evening along the shore.

Ruby showed up later in the room holding a block of ice wrapped in plastic that Bee had given her.  While they all prepared their things for the island-hopping trip the next morning, I sat back on the bed to enjoy my ice-filled glass as I slowly poured the country’s best beer –San Miguel– into it.

It was a luxury I would regret in the next few hours, in fact, for the next few days.

Day 3 – Feb. 7, 2017 – (Tuesday): Island Hopping Tour Day 

Immediately after breakfast, John knocked on our door and informed us that we needed to prepare for the island-hopping tour by 9:00 AM.  A few guests had already milled around the nipa-roofed gazebo, where we could see them choose and pick among several sizes and colors of snorkel gear neatly arranged atop a low table in the middle of the sandy floor.

Last night, however, my seemingly innocuous decision to ask for some ice for my warm canned beer resulted in vomiting episodes and several trips to the bathroom – bad water– that rendered me so physically exhausted.  But who wants to miss a cruise of the islands on a nice day in El Nido?

He prepped six (6) other guests and us on what to expect during the ‘island-hopping’ tour and offered great tips on how to ‘survive’ the almost day-long water trip.  Then, without John, our boat crew of four (4), led by a spunky Palaweña in her late twenties, herded us to a quarter-mile walk along the shore towards the deeper part of the bay where the resort-owned outrigger was moored.

Yesterday afternoon, before heading downtown for dinner, we agreed to purchase the “Island-hopping package C” (“Hidden beaches and shrines“), which started with a nearly hour-long ride to Tapiutan Island.  Our group was barely enjoying the waters in our snorkel gear when a coast guard band of two aboard a small motorboat waved us to move to a different location to protect the coral reefs in the area we were in.

The next stop would be ‘Secret Beach‘.  It is accessible via a narrow portal that leads to a cove with shallow water, surrounded by limestone walls that have witnessed a significant slice of mankind’s history.  The big boulders below the water made it an ideal place to waddle around and enjoy the sun.

Lunch aboard the boat consisted of a salad medley made of cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, grilled ‘pork liempo’ (pork belly),  steamed ‘tahong‘ (mussels), grilled ‘tambakol‘ (skipjack tuna) complemented with slices of watermelon and pineapple.  We also bought fresh coconuts from an enterprising vendor who sold canned soda and beer on a boat.

After lunch, our boat headed to “Hidden Beach”, which was the most challenging part of the trip for non-swimmers, as one had to fight a swell near the edge of the cove, amidst huge rocks that were constantly slammed with waves.  At least two boat crews had to assist each guest who either couldn’t swim or was unwilling to venture into the dangerous waters.

The last leg of the tour was a brief stop at the “Helicopter Island” – so-called because its silhouette resembles a helicopter when viewed from a distance – where we took pictures of the majestic cliff walls.  We missed those beautiful sunset views, as gray skies dominated the rest of the afternoon.

It was almost 5 PM when we finally made the channel crossing back to the bay and a short walk along a narrow, tree-lined path leading to the resort’s back door, where some drinks and biscuits awaited us.

Day 4 – Feb. 8, 2017 – (Wednesday): Back to Puerto Princesa on a Bum Stomach  

My stomach felt better after a cup of tea and a Pepto-Bismol tablet.  Breakfast consisted of two boiled eggs, as I was too weak and tired to go to the restaurant.  The styrofoam box with my dinner lay untouched on top of the shelf.  Last night, after the boat trip, Mat & Johan went back downtown to get some food and check it out a bit more, while Ruby just opted to stay to help me out with my stomach bug.

We quietly packed up our belongings, including our still-damp clothes, as the lack of breeze from the bayfront and the fact that it had been mostly overcast for the remainder of the afternoon after the boat trip didn’t help the somber mood.

A narrow tricycle with enough space for the 4 of us took us back to town for our ride back to Puerto Princesa.  At the bus terminal, I took care of our luggage.  At the same time, they walked off in search of a pharmacy to obtain some anti-diarrheal tablets, electrolyte mix (Oresol), and bottled water to stabilize my stomach on the long trip back to PP.

For reasons unknown to us, we were transferred to another van loaded with two other passengers just a few miles outside of El Nido.  The van was more comfortable, so we didn’t complain.  The return trip was uneventful except for a lunch stop at an open-air restaurant that offered a nice view of the hillside and a glimpse of the waterfront further down.

We all managed to doze off in the air-conditioned van along the way, possibly in anticipation of the activities ahead in PP, or perhaps because our bodies were still recuperating from the strenuous water activities of the previous day.  Or maybe it was just another one of those sleepy, beginning-of-summer days in Palawan that’s perfect for a siesta?

By 2 PM, we’re back in the city of Puerto Princesa, and we had to wait for a few minutes at the odd mixed-business-and-living-room-like reception area of the enigmatic D’ Lucky Garden Inn– our overnight shelter for the day before we head back to Manila the next morning.

The place had an unusual appeal due to its maze of very narrow passageways that led to several doors, leaving you guessing where they would lead next.  I suspect that the entire place is an ‘all-purpose lodge’ that can accommodate all patrons looking for either a quick 3-hour ‘love motel’ service or weekly/monthly renters.

Mat had booked two separate rooms for us, and both had that unmistakable scent of a love motel, which I could describe as a mix of household bleach and a strong musk fragrance.  Mat and Johan’s room even had a motif —a red, mosquito-net-like fabric draped over the center of the double-sized bed.

After settling down in our rooms and cold showers, we rested for the remainder of the afternoon until the couple took off again aboard another van for the ‘firefly watching’ trip in an area of the Iwahig River where a penal colony is situated nearby.  They would be the only takers for the PHP 1,200 (USD 24) per head tour, as inclement weather discourages other tourists.

Meanwhile, Ruby wandered all over to sort out the entire compound while I stayed inside the room to battle the bacterial infection that had now settled in the lower intestines.  The numerous trips to the bathroom made me so hungry that the ham & cheese sandwich, fries, and a bottle of Sprite that I ordered did not last long on the serving tray.

Mat had sent a text message to inform me that we both were already asleep when they returned from their trip by 9:30.  They would report the following morning that while they enjoyed the food at the restaurant stop before they took the boat for the firefly watching, just a few of them showed up and failed to dazzle with their fireworks as it briefly rained during the trip.

Day 5 – Feb. 9, 2017 – (Thursday):  Puerto Princesa Airport in 3 Minutes

Since our one-and-a-half-hour flight back to Manila was scheduled for noon, just after having their early morning coffees, the trio accepted the offer of one of the receptionists, whose husband owns a tricycle, to give them a ride to Baker’s Hill and Mitra Ranch at a discount.  Ruby decided to return to Baker’s Hill to buy that delicious hopia again, this time as ‘pasalubongs‘ (presents) for the folks back in Manila. 

With renewed spirits after spending almost 18 hours in bed since our arrival, I decided to explore the place after a hearty breakfast of ‘cornisilog‘ (corned beef hash, fried egg, and fried rice).  My bum stomach had markedly improved after the continuous intake of the electrolyte mix, cold Sprite, and Diatabs.

The ‘lucky garden’ was just across our room, so I made a few trips between the bathroom, the garden, and the restaurant just to the right.  I took a few pictures of the surrounding areas to pass the time while I waited for the trio to return.

Sometimes you visit a place, and one bad experience would be enough to ruin your entire perception of its people.  On the other side of the coin, the friendliness of the people in a particular place could be so overwhelming that you wish that you had stayed much longer.

Palawan is one of those places that could be categorized as the latter.  Its people will afford you just the right amount of personal space so that you can introspect on your life’s journey and enjoy what the entire island has to offer.

After the trio arrived, a nearly brand-new white van picked us up at approximately 10:50 AM.  From PEO Road, it made a left turn towards Rizal Avenue, then turned right into an open gate after a brief moment.  After that very long trip to El Nido and back, we’re all surprised by that relatively brief interlude of a ride to the airport.

At 10:53 AM, we quietly unloaded our bags from the van and headed to the Air Asia check-in counter for the flight back to Manila.

During our short trip to Siem Reap to marvel at the spectacular temples in the Angkor complex – Angkor Wat is just the centerpiece of this massive Khmer kingdom – we learned not only about the ancient past but also how young Cambodians look to the future.  Thanks to our young ‘tuk-tuk‘ driver, Lam Lot, and the universality of the English language.

Aboard his black-colored cart with that distinctive purple seat covers, pulled by a 125 cc. motorcycle, he informed us that he had invested approximately US$1,450 ($550 for the cart and $900 for a popular Japanese-brand motorcycle) in his contraption after leaving his all-around job at a hotel that paid him US$100 per month.

Taxis are scarce, especially in the outskirts of downtown Siem Reap, making tuk-tuks the most convenient way to get around the city.   Although shops are abundant that rent out motorcycles, scooters, ATVs, and bikes, you’re on your own to figure out your way around.

Educated by Buddhist monks, Lam Lot is the epitome of the new breed of young Cambodians who are determined not only to forget the grim, yet not-so-distant past and focus on the present, but are also willing to embrace new technologies.

During the Pol Pot regime, being an intellectual meant the death sentence.  These days, thanks to the Internet and the tourism boom, young Cambodians are increasingly aware of what’s happening in and outside their country. They are also willing to take the lead in propelling their country forward.

 Lot, who preferred to be called by that name, is employed by the hotel (Sekla Villa Angkor) where we stayed, which has a stable of about 4 or 5 tuk-tuk drivers to transport guests around for free as a marketing ploy.

We got endeared to him by his persistence in conversing with us in English, although we had to ‘cup our ears’ to his mouth for us to comprehend what he meant.

Accompanied by hand gestures, we were able to convey most of what we wanted to accomplish during our city tour.  He also refused to accept our tips (but we persisted) for the trip from the airport to our hotel and informed us (yes, almost scolded us) that “everything was included in the hotel deal.”

 Before we headed to our room, we paid for the “Grand Circle Tour” ($5) and the “Sunset Viewing” ($10) at one of the temples along the way, but it made us wonder why the former didn’t already include the latter.  We also reminded the young lady receptionist that we wanted the same tuk-tuk driver who brought us in.

The next morning, immediately after we had our breakfasts, Lot greeted us with his sheepish smile and provided us with an overview of the Grand Circle Tour of the Angkor complex using a map that he pulled out from the canopy of his tuk-tuk.  He had also brought a cooler, which he filled with ice and several bottles of water.

Except for our lodging, we had done almost no research about the Angkor complex.  We all thought that visiting Angkor Wat was simply a matter of seeing another UNESCO World Heritage site in a couple of hours, taking a few pictures, heading back to our hotel to rest, and then picking another interesting spot to visit in the city.  How wrong we were.

Siem Reap, despite its eclectic blend of the old and new, its provincial and small-town charm, had already instilled a mixed feeling of excitement and sadness inside me yesterday after I saw piles of garbage strewn all over the place, just a few miles from the airport and within the city proper.

A small creek, floating with food take-out boxes and an assortment of plastic debris, nearby our hotel, didn’t help to contradict that sadness — that, sometimes, borders on outright disgust.

Soon, the narrow inner roads gave way to broader, cemented roads, where, from a distance, we could see a cluster of tall, white-colored structures with bright red roofs — the Angkor Complex Visitors Center.

 Lot told us to get our tickets inside and pointed to a spot where he would meet us amidst the pandemonium of people — tourists who had poured out from numerous tour buses, cars, tuk-tuks, scooters, bicycles, peddlers, and tour guides– in the parking lot.

He had also explained to us along the way that ticket prices were increased from US$37 for a single-day entry (usually $20).  The special “buy 2 days and get the 3rd day free” offer is now $62 (usually $40) to take advantage of the influx of Chinese tourists visiting Cambodia for their holidays, as it coincides with their Lunar New Year.

The US dollar is the unofficial and widely accepted currency in the country, although locals will still gladly take Cambodian riels.  Most shops will either give your change in riel or dollars, depending on what’s available.

Now armed with our 3-day passes, we drove for another mile or so until we reached a checkpoint manned by two uniformed personnel who verified our faces with the pictures on the passes and punched the date we entered, located at the back of our tickets.

It was after we made a short right turn towards our first stop in our grand circle tour that we all realized how massive the Angkor complex was.  This is going to be a very long day.

 

The temples in the almost 16-mile-long ‘grand circle tour’  not only mesmerized, tantalized, and dazzled our eyes but also made our feet very sore.  Unfortunately, I lost my custom-made foot orthosis during the flight to Manila (we traveled to Siem Reap via Hanoi from Manila), and the off-the-shelf foot support I used provided little relief.

There were several occasions during our 3-day sorties inside the Angkor complex that I preferred to stay in the tuk-tuk with Lot due to the constant pain in my left ankle.  At the same time, Ruby and her sister, Rosana, excitedly clambered up the steps of the taller stone towers.

By past noon, we found ourselves sleeping in a row of hammocks beside a roadside eatery near Neak Pean, an artificial island with a Buddhist temple at its center.  Most eateries inside the complex -as well as the tuk-tuks– have hammocks that provide a quick way to take a nap.

 We were so tired after we emerged from the west gate of the next temple, Preah Khan, that we had the comforts of the hotel bed in the back of our heads as soon as we boarded Lot’s tuk-tuk once again.

 The Bayon was so big that we all decided to take a few photos aboard the tuk-tuk, revisit the place the following day, and head back to the hotel instead.  Not after we passed by a memorial for people who died in the ‘killing fields’ during the Pol Pot regime.

Before we headed to our room, Lot informed us that he would take us to a massage parlor – they’re all over the city – to soothe our tired legs and bodies, as well as a night tour of downtown Siem Reap.  We had to do this impromptu trip in a jiffy as we still had the “sunrise viewing” of Angkor Wat that required us to be up by 4:30 AM the next day.

If there’s a compelling reason to return to Siem Reap, it would be those massage parlors.  Not only were the massages ridiculously cheap -as low as $1.50 for an hour-long foot massage- but they also served as the perfect way to end your very, very tiring day inside the ancient complex.

You would do your conscience a big favor when you tip well those masseuses and masseurs, as we all agreed that those low rates straddle the thin line between slave labor and gainful employment.

 

 Very early the following morning, after we picked up our breakfasts in paper bags from the receptionist, Lot motored us to a different route for our dawn viewing of the magnificent Angkor Wat—the main reason for our trip to Cambodia.

We eventually spent almost half a day inside the splendid Angkor Wat, whose walls, lintels, nooks, and crevices were adorned by some of the most fascinating carvings and inscriptions the human race had ever seen.  We also managed to venture as far as the outer, eastern portion of the complex.

For the Khmers, life goes on, content with the knowledge that the temples will remain with them for as long as they live.  For us visitors, we can only enjoy every moment of this special opportunity to marvel at one of mankind’s most remarkable creations.

Later on, he showed us another part of downtown that’s popular among ex-pats and had lunch at a fast-food joint that featured an eclectic mix of just about everything on their menu.

 

 Afterward, Lot recommended that we visit the fishing village of Kompong Phluk, which took the better part of 1.5 hours for the one-way, back-breaking trip on mostly unsealed roads.

It was almost like a scene from a “Mad Max” movie as our boat meandered along the murky Tonlé Sap river, whose stench competed with our curiosity for any marine or human activities on this surreal backdrop.

 

The Tonlé Sap River ends at a lake of the same name and connects it to the 7th-longest river in Asia, the Mekong.  Just like the river, this vast lake had suffered significant sedimentation due to the exploitation of its resources.  A patina of brown seems to tint the water as the sun’s reflection bounces from the bottom towards the surface.

 

 

On the way back to our hotel, Lot would point out to us the dusty road that leads to his parents’ house, where he and his young wife stay.  He pays for the family’s food and utility expenses.  A few more miles on the same highway, he would point to a grocery store owned by a relative of his wife, where she helps out.

On our last day in Siem Reap, Lot would take us to the old market early in the morning, where we bought a suitcase for all our extra stuff since we arrived in Hanoi exactly a week ago.  He also helped us get discounts for all our souvenirs in the tourist market near the very popular night attraction in downtown, ‘ Pub Street’.

 After we packed all our bags and turned them over to the front desk for safekeeping, we checked out of our hotel and allowed Lot to decide how to spend the remaining eight or so hours we had to spare before our late evening flight to Puerto Princesa in the Philippines.

Without wasting any time, he drove us to the temples in Ta Phrom, a much smaller complex located east of the Bayon.  Because of the humidity, I decided to stay aboard his tuk-tuk while I peruse my newly-purchased guide book, “Ancient Angkor” by Michael Freeman and Claude Jacques.

 

 While we waited for the sisters, we had our late lunch at a spot where locals and tuk-tuk drivers eat – a pair of tourists on backpacks was also present – and enjoyed fried chicken wings, fish, and sautéed mustard greens, accompanied by a generous portion of steamed rice.

After we had picked up the sisters, we passed by the Bayon again, hoping to relax in one of its many open spaces near the water, as the noonday heat had significantly increased the humidity.

He suggested that we buy some snacks and drinks once outside the Angkor complex, and suggested that we proceed to a “picnic spot where he often goes when he and his wife were still sweethearts“.

The place turned out to be West Baray, a man-made lake or reservoir constructed in the 11th century and a crucial component of the Angkor complex during the heyday of the Khmer Empire.

Some construction is underway on the artificial island, the West Mebon, where a magnificent bronze Vishnu still stands, located in the middle of this vast reservoir that covers an area of approximately 1,760 hectares (4,349 acres).

It’s very popular with locals who go there to picnic, take naps, or take a quick dip in its murky, brown water.  There are no gates, either, where you pay a fee up front to enter. 

Lot spoke to an elderly woman, who then proceeded to find a spot for the four (4) of us amongst the numerous huts that were on stilts.

 

 Each hut seems to have a few hammocks randomly strung on it, but we found it more refreshing to lie on the mats strewn on the bamboo floor.

It was in this rustic setting, after we had some snacks, that I pondered long and hard on the calm waters of the West Baray.  My thoughts drifted back to the days when I was still a young kid growing up in the sleepy town of Baclaran.

Manila Bay was my West Baray, and the nearby Redemptorist Church (Our Lady of Perpetual Help), although not afloat in a body of water, could have been the West Mebon. 

The noonday heat had reached its peak, and a slight breeze from the north lulled the three of us into a slumber while Lam Lot borrowed a piece of cloth from the elderly woman as he prepared to take a swim.

In my brief dream, various nostalgic moments rolled through my mind.  Still, they were not too vivid enough for me to recollect when I woke up smiling afterward – except for one:

That I was walking along the grass-lined walkways inside the Angkor complex, where the Khmer people were all smiling at me on a quiet day, sometimes in those ancient days.

Day 1 – Jan. 31, 2016 – (Sunday): Nueva Ecija, here we come

Rey, who would be driving, arrived at my aunt’s house at about 3:45 AM that balmy Sunday morning.  January is usually the height of the dry season in the archipelago.  Still, the calm westerly winds also gave that early part of the day a relaxed and almost comforting atmosphere.

I hardly slept that night, still suffering from the late effects of jet lag and the non-stop noise from the tricycles and scooters.  My aunt’s house straddled the main road in that part of Imus (a city in the province of Cavite) that had become a veritable commercial area — a far cry from the rural appeal the place had for me, where I finished my high school years in the mid-70s.

We wasted no time and left for Mandaluyong, where we picked up Rona (my sister-in-law), her mother, Nita (my mother-in-law), and Ronald‘s family (his wife, Winnie, and their twin sons, Dominic and Benedict), as we were running late.  But not after stopping by a drug store where Rey bought some medicine for his stomach ulcer and at a gas station where we inflated the tires to their correct pressure.  After all, the trip to Nueva Ecija would be about 5-6 hours, despite our very early start.

Ronald married a coworker while he was a teacher in a private school near San Juan, Metro Manila.  Winnie‘s parents hail from Santo Domingo, Nueva Ecija, where both had been tilling a sizeable piece of farmland entrusted to them.

Like most farm workers in the Philippines, they don’t own the title to the land but only get a portion of the rice harvest.  Nueva Ecija owns the title of being the “rice granary of the Philippines.“

It was almost 6 AM when we left Manila and its outskirt cities as we entered the first of three (3) expressways to our destination.

We used a connecting road along Mindanao Avenue in Quezon City to enter NLEX (North Luzon Expressway).  This two-lane expressway (equivalent to a secondary highway in advanced countries) would extend all the way to Santa Ines in Pampanga, and then utilize another connector road in Tarlac to another expressway called SCTEX (Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway). 

We traversed only a short portion of this newly built two-lane highway until it dead-ends in the city of Tarlac, as we veered east to the final expressway, TPLEX (Tarlac-Pangasinan-La Union Expressway).

The road narrowed after we used the Aliaga exit along the TPLEX and found ourselves on the old MacArthur Highway, which was once the main artery for travel north of these islands.

You’re already in Nueva Ecija when you see ‘palay‘ (unmilled rice) on the roadside and passenger tricycles plying the main roads.

We finally arrived in the town of Santo Domingo five (5) hours after we left Mandaluyong.  The trip covered approximately 250 kilometers (155 miles), yet it felt like one of the longest days I’ve had on the road, due to the numerous turnouts we took after leaving the expressways.

Winnie’s parent (Willie and Gloria) house is a low-slung, single-story concrete structure located about a few hundred meters from the feeder road, surrounded by rice fields.

I was immediately attracted to a set of varnished bamboo chairs, two of which are longer than the others, on the small veranda of the house that overlooked the rice fields.  What perfect spots to take a quick nap!

After the formal introductions,  I used my bag as a pillow and stretched my tired body on one of the long chairs that faced the rice fields.  At the same time, Ronald and his wife went to the nearest public market using the family-owned tricycle to buy all the ingredients for lunch.

Lunch was almost ready when I woke up an hour later.  Winnie had been busy grilling the large yet fresh ‘pusit‘ (squid), several pieces of fish locally called ‘dalag‘ (mudfish), and ‘pork liempo‘ (grilled pork spareribs marinated in ‘calamansi‘ (calamondin) and soy sauce).

Using freshly harvested vegetables from a nearby plot, Winnie’s mother prepared an Ilocano version of “pinakbet “(vegetable salad with shrimp paste).   She also made a side dish of green mango salad.  On a long table set up outside, heaps of newly cooked rice lie in wait.

After lunch, I couldn’t resist taking a few pictures of the rustic scenery and then headed back to my makeshift bed and took another nap.  The magnificent view of the verdant rice fields seems to have cast a hypnotic spell upon me that, in no time, I was in dreamland once again.

At about 3 PM, Rey reminded me that we should leave for Talavera before dark, as we might not find it easy to look for my relatives’ place.

I had planned to visit my uncle, “Tata Amado” (the only living brother of my late father), and cousins in the nearby town of Talavera, which was one of the reasons I agreed to join the trip.

We reached Sicsican Bridge in barangay Calipahan, Talavera – the only landmark I could still remember getting there- in about 40 minutes using the interior roads. We used to collect some pebbles along its banks and traipsed in the river’s clear waters when it was not too deep.

We had to ask for directions twice before we found my cousin Fidela’s house.  She was our dear  ‘Ate Dely‘ when she was still a teenager and stayed with us in Baclaran.  She’s the second eldest in the large family of my uncle, comprising eight (8) daughters (Lucena (†), Fidela, Ila, Vita, Teresa (Tate), Josefina (Fina), Divina, Cristeta (Ata), and an only son, Ambrosio (‘Ambo‘).

‘Ambo‘ is about my age and was my constant companion during my visits, usually, accompanying my father.  It had been almost 40 years since my last visit to Talavera.  The last time was during the summer break before I entered my first year of college; I had brought my bike along on that trip, and I remember riding it as far as the province’s boundary with Nueva Vizcaya.

While Ate Dely and I got reacquainted, Rey wandered around the surrounding areas.

Winnie and Ronald took this as an opportune time to make a quick trip to nearby Cabanatuan City aboard a tricycle.  I moved on to visit the rest of my cousins, whose houses were just next to each other — just a few meters away from Fidela’s.

Although most of the siblings built their houses on the ancestral lot, a portion of their old home, where they grew up, remained.

Upon seeing my Tata Amado in his wheelchair on the veranda of their old house, my mind raced back to when I was in my late teens, and everywhere I looked, it was fresh and expansive. 

I still remember the infinite rice fields, the carabaos (water buffalos) in the shed, the giant ‘suha‘ (pomelo), and other fruit trees.  And, yes, the quiet, dusty road that led inwards to the town — and the same dusty roads where Ambo and I rode our bikes on our way to Pantabangan Dam, which was in its final phase of construction during that period.

The roads are now busy, and the incessant sound of the tricycles seems to drown whatever peace has remained.  Everything seems to have been taken over by a melange of concrete, steel, sheet metal, and other appurtenances that humans euphemistically term progress.

And I felt a deep sadness in my heart and that same question beckoned — “Why do we have to grow old?”

I took pictures, asked questions, and met some of my nephews and nieces whose names and faces I probably won’t remember the next time.  They would have all grown up and changed, and will have their own families.

We headed back to Santo Domingo before sunset and stopped briefly at a  7-11 convenience store for three (3) bottles of ‘San Miguel Grande‘ (the ‘national beer’ in a huge bottle).  We made another stop at a roadside “ihaw-ihaw“ (barbeque) stall, where we got some grilled “pork liempo“ (pork ribs) and “lechon manok” (grilled chicken).

Our companions were already in their sleeping attire when we arrived.  We had our beers and BBQ for dinner, along with a plateful of rice and a vegetable dish.

Winnie’s father and brother later joined us at the table as we spent the rest of the evening listening to stories that primarily focused on how their family had settled on the place.

Day 2 – Feb. 01, 2016 – (Monday): The Road Back to Manila

A mosquito net and an electric fan enabled me to get some deep sleep, so I grabbed my camera and took nature’s call outside to take a few pictures of the surrounding areas at daybreak.  It was about 6 AM.

The narrow dirt road that led to a cemented one, which would take us to the main highway, was still empty, and the sunrise painted the horizon with varying shades of black and yellow.

I staggered back inside the house to make myself a cup of coffee. Everyone roused up early except one of the twin, still deep in slumber on the sofa bed.

Someone had prepared the kitchen table for a quick breakfast — a Thermos bottle, packets of instant coffee and chocolate, and a blue plastic bag full of bite-sized hot “pan de sal” (lightly-salted bread rolls) were already neatly laid out.

I grabbed a few pieces of the tiny buns as Ronald emerged from the door near a hand-driven water pump, held up two cans, and asked if I wanted corned beef hash or sardines for him to sauté.

“Both,” I replied, and immediately headed to the veranda to enjoy the morning view of the rice fields with my impromptu breakfast.

After everybody had their breakfast, we took turns fetching water from the manual water pump using plastic pails for our showers.  I used the smaller outdoor toilet near some bamboo trees, and tidbits of memories flooded my brain about how I would go through all these morning rituals during my extended stays with my cousins in Talavera.

It was about 9 AM when we all got ready for the trip back to Manila, but not after passing by the small parcel of land centrally located among all the rice fields in the surrounding areas that Ronald had called “gubat” (forest).

We had to walk along very narrow footpaths to reach it, so we parked the van along the road, near a treehouse.  Her wheeled walker prevented my mother-in-law from coming along.  Rona decided to stay with her in the truck.  She would join us in the ‘gubat’ a few minutes later.

The ‘gubat‘ serves as a perfect resting area and refuge for farmers after tilling the land for hours during the hot, dry months and during the typhoon season when sporadic rains and howling winds batter the rice fields.

‘Manong’ Willie (in the Philippines, particularly in Luzon Province, affixing the word ‘manong’ to a name is a sign of respect) had erected a small hut with elevated flooring made of bamboo and nipa.  Bamboo and palm – came from the trees that grew abundantly on the fringes of the same tract of land.  The underside of the hut served as a temporary coop for native chickens and their young broods until he decided where to build a permanent and larger one on the land.

Except for electricity and a permanent water source, the ‘gubat‘ could be an excellent place to be in case of a calamity, as it’s not only elevated but also self-sufficient. Fruit trees were abundant, and Manong Willie planted vegetables almost everywhere.  Several pigs and ducks roamed freely in the open spaces.

We lingered for over an hour, and my mind tried vainly to connect the present with my long-gone youth.  Time, indeed, has ways to temper even the most outrageous of dreams.

And so, during this brief summer interlude in Nueva Ecija, I realized that although my idealism may have long been gone, my appreciation for life and all its blessings will always remain.