{"id":3006,"date":"2025-08-17T10:38:00","date_gmt":"2025-08-17T18:38:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.marcoscarpio.com\/wordpress\/?p=3006"},"modified":"2025-09-11T12:21:27","modified_gmt":"2025-09-11T20:21:27","slug":"soul-searching-in-soulac-sur-mer","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.marcoscarpio.com\/wordpress\/2025\/08\/17\/soul-searching-in-soulac-sur-mer\/","title":{"rendered":"Soul Searching in Soulac-sur-Mer"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The coastal town of Soulac-sur-Mer<\/strong> in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of France reminds me of the classic 1966 French film by Claude Lelouch, “Un Homme et Une Femme<\/a><\/strong>” (“A Man and A Woman<\/strong>“).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The quaint town would have been the perfect getaway for the lovers, Anne<\/strong> and Jean-Louis<\/strong>, a widower and a widow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The town’s centerpiece is the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Fin-des-Terres<\/strong> (“Basilica of Our Lady of the Edge of the World”). It’s a Romanesque-style<\/strong> church built between the 11th and 12th centuries and, due to siltation, remained buried under the sand for 150 years until a 45-year restoration project “unearthed” the church back in 1905.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
Inside the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la Fin-des-Terres, a UNESCO World Heritage site<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

From the basilica, you can cross the street and head left to go into the center of town along Rue de la Plage, <\/strong>or you can head straight towards Rue du Mar\u00e9chal d’Ornano<\/strong>. Admire the rows of small but beautiful, low-slung, summer houses with tiled roofs and picket fences.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At the corner of the street with the same name is the historic Hotel de Ville<\/strong>. The French flag proudly flies below a clock with the national motto, “Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite” emblazoned on top.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
It would have been called “Municipal Hall” in other countries, but credit the French for naming theirs as “Hotel de Ville” <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Hotel de Ville, contrary to its name, is not a hotel but the administrative office<\/strong> building of Soulac-sur-Mer. It hosts not only public meetings but also exhibitions, concerts, and other community events that bring the residents together and foster goodwill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Along the sides of the small but beautiful and well-maintained garden are epitaphs of famous French public officials who had graced the historic building, including one named Charles de Gaulle<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

From Rue du Mar\u00e9chal d’Ornano, you can head straight and send your postcards at Le Poste <\/strong>(post office) at the corner of Rue Victor Hugo<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

And suppose you happen to be a tourist backpacking or traveling all over France in a rented motorhome. In that case, you can kill some time and wash some of your dirty clothes at a nearby laundromat while you’re shopping at L’Essentiel<\/strong> for some special ingredients, wines, and drinks for tonight’s dinner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, do all of the above in a place seemingly caught in a time warp, where the distant past and the present seem to have converged in this quiet commune. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

I couldn’t overcome the mixed feelings of nostalgia, d\u00e9j\u00e0 vu, and awe as we walked along the brick sidewalks towards the busier Rue de la Plage. I’m sure I would bump into some people I had known in the past, including Anne and Jean-Louis<\/u>, and that nothing would have changed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
The March\u00e9 Municipal (Municipal Market) would be the perfect place to sample the local food and vibe in Soulac-sur-Mer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Despite being an off-season (we went there in early May), a sizeable number of tourists had disembarked from the nearby port of Le Havre<\/strong> to visit the town and spend some time on the beach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Just a few steps after we turned the corner towards Rue de la Plage, the sight of March\u00e9 Municipal <\/strong>awakened me from my daydreams.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What better way to experience local dishes than by trying them in the food stalls of a public market, just like we do almost anywhere in Spain?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
A wall poster that seems to date back to the turn of the 20th century blends well with the bucolic atmosphere of Soulac-sur-Mer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The municipal market was closed that day, so we took an alley with a lovely water fountain towards Rue Trouche<\/strong> to look for a bakery and get some fresh French rolls. They would go well with the gourmet sardines we got at L’Essentiel, along with a few bottles of locally-made soda. We would have our lunch at the beach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
At the beach side in Soulac-sur-Mer, where the Atlantic Ocean tapers into the Bay of Biscay<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

After a brief lunch and a stroll along the Bay of Biscay<\/strong>‘s shoreline, which eventually blends with the mighty Atlantic, we headed back to town and did some shopping along Rue de la Plage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The flux of tourists we saw earlier had tapered to a few; some had sat down for lunch at a few beachside restaurants that were open, while some had probably taken the approximately one-and-a-half-hour drive to the wine-producing city of Bordeaux<\/strong>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Note that if you visit Soulac during the off-season<\/strong> (September to June), most shops, including the municipal market, open only a few hours from Friday to Sunday.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
Some shops in Soulac, including the Municipal Market, are open only on Fridays and weekends<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

But no matter what time of the year you visit Soulac, don’t forget to try out the locals’ favorites, Canel\u00e9s de Bordeaux <\/strong>(rum and vanilla-infused custard with a caramelized crust) and Past\u00e9is de Nata <\/strong>(French version of the popular Portuguese custard treat). <\/strong>They go well with a cup of coffee or any of your favorite drinks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t<\/svg>\n\t\t<\/button>
A favorite among locals,
Canel\u00e9s de Bordeaux<\/strong> is a bite-sized treat but requires patience to make and goes well with your favorite cup of brew.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As we boarded our bus to leave the town, I could still hear the hushed voices of Anne explaining to Jean-Louis why it was difficult to erase memories of the almost-perfect relationship with her late husband, Pierre<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the couple heads out for the bay, Anne has already realized that she will have to forget about the past — to live and be happy in the present.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The coastal town of Soulac-sur-Mer in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of France reminds me of the classic 1966 French film by Claude Lelouch, “Un Homme et Une Femme” (“A Man and A Woman“). The quaint town would have been the perfect getaway for the lovers, Anne and Jean-Louis, a widower and a widow. The town’s centerpiece … <\/p>\n

Continue reading “Soul Searching in Soulac-sur-Mer”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7,8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3006","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-travels","category-whats-new"],"yoast_head":"\nSoul Searching in Soulac-sur-Mer - Baclaran Para\u00f1aque Rizal<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of Southwest France, lies the commune of Soulac-sur-Mer. 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